!!!
GARDEN Q&A
Got a garden question?
Send it to:farmer fred
!!!
GARDEN Q&A
Got a garden question?
Send it to:farmer fred
VEGETABLES FRUITS SHRUBS AND TREES FLOWERS SOILS, SEEDS,
PLANTING PESTS AND
DISEASES LAWNS AND WEEDS
Joe of Lodi writes: "When we bought our place in 1984 there were 4 liquid amber trees in our side yard. They have now grown up to large trees but with many roots on top of the ground. Had we known this would have happened the trees would have been removed while they were small. Is there any other solution than having them removed. I hope you will stop others from planting these trees.I enjoy your articles in the Sentinel."
Yes indeed, liquidambars are notorious surface rooters. Although there are some garden gurus who claim that if you deep water liquidambars from a young age, the roots will stay down. I have yet to see any proof of that. Once roots have coursed their way throughout your yard, it's near impossible to reroute those roots.
If you take those trees out, just be sure to deep water (via a slow delivery system such as soaker hoses or drip irrigation on a weekly basis, eight hours at a time) the trees to help insure that the roots go downward.
If you're looking for replacement suggestions that mimic the vivid fall color and shape of the liquidamber - but are deep rooted - try the gingko (Gingko biloba) or the tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica).
Harvey of Isleton asks: "I only occasionally listen to your radio talk show, because I usually attend church at 10:00 and go out for breakfast afterwards. Anyway, a month or so ago you had someone speaking about a certain tree and you indicated the following week Eucalyptus nicholii would be discussed. Unfortunately, I was unable to listen to that program. I've been thinking of what to plant for two rows of trees about 200 feet long to serve as a privacy (view and noise) break between our house and Highway 160 that runs by us down here in Isleton. I've considered coastal redwoods (already have about 70 planted along a perimiter, California Pepper Trees, Live Oaks, and the Eucalyptus nicholli. I haven't seen any specimens of mature trees, but the description Sunset's Western Garden Book sounds good. I've noticed the California Pepper Trees were damaged slightly with this year's cold weather, but it appears this variety of Eucalyptus should do better (hardiness to 12-15 degrees per Sunset). It should also grow faster than a live oak. I like the coastal redwoods but they will take longer to provide the privacy up to 20 feet high that I want since they have a pyrimidal shape. I plan on planting two rows 15 feet apart and perhaps space the trees 15 or 20 feet apart with the rows (offseting the spacing from the adjoining row). The closest row will be about 50 feet from my house. I'd like your answers to the following questions:
1. Are there any mature specimens around the Sacramento area that I can inspect?
On the perimeter of the SMUD headquarters parking lot; UC Davis Arboretum, American River College campus near the Theater Arts building.
2. Are there any major detractions to the Eucalyptus nicholii?
It is smaller and more open than some of the other commonly found Eucalyptus varieties. It also has a shallow, invasive root system and should not be used near concrete, sewer or septic lines or water lines. My main concern with planting several rows of the same variety of eucalyptus is that if one develops a disease or pest problem, then they all may suffer. If you want to do several rows of eucalyptus, I'd mix varieties. On my property, I've planted six rows of eucalyptus as a wind break, with much the same spacing as what you are doing. The rows run east-west. Looking from the north, I have two rows of E. globulus (to 100 feet high), 2 rows of E. camaludensis (to 80 feet), and 2 rows of E. Leucoxylon (about 50 feet). The prevaling harsh winter wind here is from the south east, so by having the shortest eucalyptus at the front of this "wind barrier", it gradually takes the wind over the tops of each successive set of taller trees, much like air moves over an airplane wing. Thus, the "protected area" from wind can extend out as much as 5 times the height of the tallest row. Hopefully, as the trees grow (these eight year old e. globulus are about 40 feet tall now), the house, which is 250 feet away from this wind break, will eventually be protected from the wind. (We'll see. This is definitely an experiment).
3. What spacing would you suggest?
I also have a "privacy screen" of coast redwoods, planted seven feet apart. It became a "solid screen" by its fourth year.
4. Do you know of any source for seedling trees?
Most of the seedling sources I know of deal only in local (or unknown) eucalytpus varieties. I grew all my eucalyptus from seed, they are easy! You might try Lockhart Seeds in Stockton; UC Santa Cruz has an extensive collection of Australian plants (and eucalyptus) in their arboretum, you might call them; or call the people at Forest Farm catalog in Williams, Oregon (541-846-7269), they may have e. nicholli seeds or seedlings.
Ted of Shingle Springs asks: "My dad lives in Lodi and has 24 camellias that are about 45 years old. Six have little camellia plants that come up at the base. He wants to know, if he were to can them up, would they produce camellias? If so, will they be like the mother plant?"
The seeds that camellias produce each fall can sprout nearby. But don't expect the flowers to look the same as those on the mother plant. The book, "Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices", states that camellias do not come true from seed. Seedlings are used in breeding new cultivars, as rootstocks for grafting, or in growing hedges where foliage is the only consideration. Transplant camellias during their dormancy period, which is while they are in bloom (right now, for the widely popular camellia japonica). It takes four to seven years to bring a camellia into flowering from seed. But again, there's no telling what the resulting bloom will look like.
Doug and Linda of Sacramento ask: "We want to replace a Modesto ash tree in our yard. Are there any good shade trees for around here that don't suffer like those ash trees?"
Planted widely throughout the valley 40 years ago, the Modesto ash tree was thought to be the perfect street tree. It didn't take too many years to go by before those trees started going into decline, suffering from anthracnose (which causes premature leaf drop in spring) and mistletoe. Although a beautiful shade tree when mature (and healthy), there are other large, deciduous trees that serve as suitable - and better - replacements. Among the candidates for our area: Chinese pistache, gingko, red oak, European hackberry and red maple.
Rich of Orangevale says: During the freeze this winter, my orange tree took a bad turn. The tree is about two years old and about 8 feet tall. But now all the leaves on the tree look burned and are falling down. Should I trim the tree back?"
For citrus injured in the December freeze, the best thing you can do for it now is to leave the pruners indoors. Wait until spring to decide what is alive and what is dead. If there are dead leaves clinging to it now, though, you can trim those off. But heavy pruning would stress the root system too much now, if the tree is clinging to survival. If the tree is alive, new buds should appear on the tips in a few weeks. In the spring, if new growth starts popping up from below the bud union or underground, prune it out. Those stems will not produce desirable fruit. You might give it some water now, since it hasn't rained in several weeks; but don't flood the area.
Here are some other freeze tips from Four Winds Growers, a wholesale citrus tree farm in Yolo County: fertilize citrus lightly now; if an arctic cold front is predicted, spray the citrus leaves with an anti-transpirant spray such as Cloud Cover; put Christmas lights in the trees or landscape lighting beneath them, an especially good tactic for cold sensitive lemons and limes; or, cover the trees during a freeze with a floating row cover made with Remay, a spun polyester material.
Bob of Lodi asks: "Are fireplace ashes good for around trees or in a garden?"
Wood ashes do contain phosphorus and potassium, two very important nutrients. But too much wood ashes in the garden will alter your soil pH. Five pounds of wood ash can raise soil pH in a 100 square foot garden by half a point. Most soils around here are neutral (in the pH range of 6 to 7), so raising the pH could make the soil too alkaline, impeding plant growth. Definitely do not add wood ashes to a garden that has acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.
In any other part of the garden, only apply 1-2 pounds of wood ashes per 100 square feet of garden in the late winter. A one-pound coffee can holds about one pound of wood ashes.
Anne of Lodi asks: "You said several months ago that it was advisable to cut back the branches of crape myrtle after blooming. Did that mean now? Also, how much?"
Yes, indeed, between late November and late February is the best time to prune crape myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica. Since crape myrtle blooms on new wood, you can cut it back fairly severely. For shrub forms, many experts say to cut back the branches 12-18 inches. For tree forms, you can cut out any dead, diseased or crossing branches. And, to keep it looking like a tree, prune out any stems that are competing with the main leader. As far as the top of the full grown tree is concerned, cutting back those branches 12-18 inches would be OK.
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Tom of Studio City asks: "I am planting three rose bushes on top of a gopher's abode. The folks at the plant store told me that it was fine if I first plant a bunch of alleged gopher repellent. Am I wasting my money and feeding a family of gophers?"
Gardeners who have had continued success using gopher repellents are few and far between. The gardeners who have thwarted gophers usually rely on traps, barriers and/or predators. Perhaps the easiest solution to protect your new rose bushes is to line a large (two feet deep and wide) planting hole with quarter-inch mesh hardware cloth, as well as wrap the plant's root ball in hardware cloth to keep gophers away. At our place, we lined the bottoms of our raised vegetable beds with hardware cloth, which has effectively kept gophers out for ten years. Traps involve careful underground placement and judicious monitoring for successful results. In the country, nature's gopher predators include snakes, skunks, barn owls, hawks and coyotes. Also hard at work at our place, lowering the gopher population: cats and dogs, as long as they're in the mood.
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Jennifer of Galt asks: "I would like to plant a formal sheared hedge that grows about 5 feet tall. I have really bad soil, basically lots of clay. Can you recommend a tough hedge that will tolerate these conditions?"
Among the evergreen shrubs for our area that take well to shearing include: African and Japanese boxwood, bottlebrush, cypress, elaeagnus, escallonia, euonymus, holly, junipers, the New Zealand tea tree, privet, pacific wax myrtle (and other myrtles), pittosporum, Italian buckthorn, rosemary, yew, thuja and xylosma.
Of these, the ones around here that are planted in heavy clay and can tolerate poor drainage include bottlebrush, escallonia, euonymus, junipers, privet, pittosporum and rosemary. Of the rosemary varieties, "Majorca Pink" and "Miss Jessup's Upright" get about 4 ft. tall.
Janet of Concord asks, "Could you tell me what are the five longest blooming perennials?"
In the book "Perennial All Stars", author Jeff Cox lists about four dozen perennials that he classifies as long-blooming (those that bloom for more than six weeks). In our yard, the perennials that put on a long-lasting bloom include 'Coronation Gold" yarrow, Santa Barbara Daisy (Erigeron karvinskianus), Russian sage, black-eyed Susan, penstemon, tree mallow and buddleia (butterfly bush). Also, coreopsis bloom for a long time. And you may think of it more as a shrub than a perennial, but Euryops (technically a shrubby evergreen perennial) produces yellow, daisy-like flowers throughout the fall, winter and spring. Another good source for perennial information is Sunset's "Western Landscaping Book".
Eucalyptus Lerp Psyllids
Sharon and Bob of Acampo want to know: "We're taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather to try to get rid of the leaves from our lerp psyllid-infected eucalyptus trees. Since we have approximately three dozen large trees infected with the critter, there's been a lot of leaf drop, so we're raking and shredding the leaves. What do you suggest we do with the finely shredded infected leaves?"
Unless you have a compost pile that's hot (over 130 degrees), bag those infected eucalyptus leaves and put them in the trash. The lerps - the hard, cocoon-like structures on the bottom of the leaves that protect the psyllids - are fairly tough, so you would need a consistently hot compost pile to destroy them.
Mary of Stockton wants to know: "Is it O.K. to use the ashes from a pellet stove on our food and flower gardens?"
Wood ashes can be added to a garden, supplying needed nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium. However, using too much can make the soil too alkaline for acid-loving plants such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. If you limit your use to one pound per 100 square feet once a year, that should be sufficient without radically altering the pH of the soil.
Sharon of Elk Grove asks: "I've heard a rumor that a 'cure' has been found for the Red Gum Lerp Psyllid that is infecting the red gum eucalyptus trees. Is this simply a rumor or is there some truth to it?"
If your eucalyptus tree is suffering from a mass of sticky, fallen leaves, chances are it's the work of a sucking insect, the Red Gum Lerp Psyllid, whose hard, cone-shaped home is on the underside of the leaves. There is a small, parasitic wasp that Dr. Donald Dahlsten of the University of California brought back from Australia, where it has been somewhat effective in controlling this pest. After an incubation period, researchers are going to release the wasp and its offsprings in the Los Angeles area first, because of the severe infestation there of red gum lerp psyllids. It may be years before we know of their effectiveness; and, the University has made no chemical recommendations that will insure total success. However, there may be some home-grown good guys already at work on this pest problem. Dahlsten and his research staff have noted that there are some natural enemies of the Red Gum Lerp Psyllid already present in California, feeding on the psyllid. These include such insects as the Asian lady beetle, minute pirate bug, two-spotted lady beetle larva and the convergent lady beetle larva. Birds seen feeding on the infested trees include the chestnut-backed chickadee and the bushtit. To keep the "good guy" insect and bird population intact and working hard, don't spray any harmful pesticides on the trees.
Judy of Chico wants to know: "I received an Earth Box for Christmas. What vegetables can I plant in it now, if any?
Among the outdoor crops for that container (which is about three feet long, one foot wide and one foot high) that can be planted through Mid-February: lettuce, spinach, radishes and garlic. Later in the year (April-May), that box can hold a small-growing tomato vine, such as Bush Beefsteak, Bush Early Girl or 506 Bush, as well as most pepper plants. Be sure to situate any growing container in full sun for these crops; but remember, as the weather heats up, more water will need to be added.
Wayne from Clements asks: "I have an abundance of wood shavings and horse manure from our barn stalls. I pile it and turn it and let it go for a month or two. At this point, will it work as good mulch for my orchard?"
If you compost those wood shavings and horse manure for several months, turning the pile regularly to keep it hot and decomposing, it should be a great mulch for your orchard, especially if you keep the mulch layer four to six inches high around each tree, placed from a couple of inches away from the tree trunk out to the dripline. If that mix of shavings and manure, however, isn't allowed to warm up in the compost pile, weed seeds may pop up in your orchard.
Joe of Sacramento wants to know: "I have a fig tree that is getting much too large for our yard. I have not found any information on pruning a fig tree. Can you give me information on this?"
Here are some recommendations from the University of California regarding fig tree pruning:
Failure to prune fig trees results in a bushy tree that lacks vigor, tends to be susceptible to limb sunburn, and produces small, inferior quality figs. Prune mature trees during the dormant season (winter) by thinning out branches and by slightly heading back long shoots to maintain tree vigor and shape. Most fig varieties yield two distinct crops of fruit each year. Remember that the first yearly crop of figs are produced at the ends of the previous year's shoot growth. If you want first crop figs, leave some full length branches when pruning. Prune enough to stimulate a foot of new growth on most limbs each year. The amount of pruning required depends on the variety; Brown Turkey and Kadota, for example, need more pruning than do Adriatic and Mission.
Lowell of Lodi wants to know: "Is eucalyptus sawdust harmful if worked into the soil?"
The problem with most fresh sawdusts (including eucalyptus) when used as a soil amendment: it hasn't completely broken down yet, so the soil microbes are going to divert their attentions from feeding plant roots to concentrate on breaking down the sawdust to its chemical components (carbon and nitrogen). Also, the addition of too much sawdust mixed into the soil can change the pH of the soil. I know one commercial berry grower who recommends growing blueberries (which loves an acidic soil) in a soil that is primarily sawdust! If you do want to use the sawdust as a soil amendment, let it thoroughly rot first.
Having said that, there are some excellent uses for sawdust, either as a mulch or an ingredient in the compost pile. As a mulch, a four inch layer will help suppress weeds around your fruit trees and other plants. Just be sure to add some fertilizer to the soil first to make up for any nitrogen loss caused by the sawdust resting on top of the soil. For a compost pile, sawdust is an excellent source of carbon.
Despite popular belief, there has been research that shows that it is not the oil from any part of the eucalyptus tree itself that keeps plants from competing beneath its canopy. It is the tree's invasive roots and shady canopy that tend to keep other plants from growing in the same location.
Judy of Concord inquires: "I have two, 20 year old Dancy tangerine trees which have always been prolific producers. However, I am careless about feeding them. Their fruit gets smaller and smaller as the years go on, developing little sweetness. You really have to pucker up when you eat them. If I get more religious about feeding them, will these problems solve themselves?"
The Dancy, a mandarin orange commonly known as a tangerine, does tend to bear in alternate years, with bigger crops of smaller fruit one year, followed by a year of fewer, but larger fruit. The Dancy's fruit is small, compared to other mandarins; but to help increase their size and flavor:
1) Hope for a hot summer. The Dancy needs lots of heat to produce a flavorful crop.
2) Hand thin the fruit after they have started forming. By reducing the number of fruit that will ripen each year, the tree will send its energy into the remaining fruit.
3) Fertilize regularly. The easiest way is to use a citrus food high in nitrogen, applied according to label directions, every six weeks, between February and September. There are those who say that nitrogen should not be applied to citrus in the fall, so as not to encourage new growth during the frost season.
4) Water regularly, about 4-6 inches of water a month during the dry months. Allowing the soil to dry out too much can cause small, unflavorful fruit. Overwatering can cause problems too, especially soil borne diseases. During the dry season (usually April through November), try watering once a week, using a drip system or soaker hose placed throughout the dripline of the tree.
Jim of Lodi asks: "My asparagus patch is two years old. Should I harvest all the stocks that emerge or leave one or two to form a bush?"
Harvest only those shoots that are the thickness of a pencil or greater. Anything thinner than that should be left to bush out. This is another reason to plant asparagus at the back of the garden: the fern-like asparagus bush can get several feet tall and wide. Let the bush grow until it turns totally brown (usually in early January), and then cut off the brown stems at soil level. A month or so later, a new crop of asparagus will begin to emerge from the ground. Begin feeding them at this time with a balanced fertilizer, continuing through the summer. Cut off harvestable shoots at soil level or slightly below, being careful not to injure any nearby emerging shoots. For best flavor, asparagus is best picked when the shoots are no greater than eight inches tall.
Leonard and Maralyn of Lodi write: "Our current dilemma is how to get rid of ivy roots. We had a huge bed of ivy that we had removed and the roots are still in and on the ground ready to sprout, horror of horrors. Any advice would be most appreciated."
Ivy can be tough to get rid of organically. One solution might be to keep the area covered with black plastic and topped with bark for a year. That might subdue the ivy. Here's a chemical control tip from the people who manufacture Roundup, a non-specific weed killer: to help control ivy, drag a stiff, metal rake over the waxy leaves before applying the herbicide. This will open up pores in the leaf surface, letting the weed killer translocate through the leaves and down into the roots. Of course, read and follow all label directions for any herbicide, being sure not to spray any desired plants.
George of Hercules asks: "I've been pruning my oleanders. Am I cutting off all my blooms? When are you supposed to prune oleanders?"
The recommended season to prune oleanders is either early spring or summer. Oleanders can take severe pruning. But lots of tip pruning or seasonal pruning for shape may restrict the number of blooms. But if you limit your pruning to once a year, you should still get a lot of blooms.
Serge of Lodi asks: "Will seeds of citrus and apples bring fruit?"
Citrus seeds may not necessarily develop into the same type of tree; usually, those that develop into the same kind of tree are used for rootstock. And, it may take between 2 and 15 years before a seedling tree bears fruit. Citrus seeds, if kept moist prior to planting, germinate at soil temperatures of 85 degrees, in 15-30 days. That would best be achieved by starting the seeds in pots that are placed on a heat pad designed for seed germination.
The best success with apple seeds, according to the book "Plant Propagation" by Hartmann and Kester, are with these varieties: Delicious, Golden Delicious, Macintosh, Winesap, Yellow Newton, Rome Beauty. Again, these seedlings are mostly used as root stock, with desired varieties grafted to it. Plant the seeds in spring, after storing in the refrigerator for 60-90 days at 35-45 degrees.
Bridget of Citrus Heights asks: "Is it to late to prune crape myrtles? I thought perhaps if I left them alone they might be bushier this year."
It's OK to prune crape myrtles from late autumn through early spring. Blooms form on new wood, so pruning back the plant by no more than 1/3 should make the plant bushier and give you more blooms.
Carol on Marysville wants to know what's happening to her lilacs: "I planted three bare root lilacs in early February. They began to leaf out nicely; and now, one by one, the new leaves shrivel up or turn black. I planted them in a mound to aid draining, as the soil here is heavy clay with hardpan. Any ideas?"
Without actually seeing the plant, it's hard to say. Lilacs can develop "witches' broom", which is caused by toxins injected into plant tissues by invading organisms such as aphids or powdery mildew. It causes distorted new growth and usually turns brown and dies. Just prune out the infected areas, six to twelve inches below the dying portion of the stem. For aphids, a blast of water from a hose early in the morning can limit that problem. Other sources of lilac problems include borers, caterpillars, cucumber beetles, leaf miners, mealybugs, scale, spider mites, whiteflies, bacterial canker, downy mildew, leaf spot, ringspot virus, root rot and verticillium wilt.
Ricki of Lodi wonders: "I am a fairly new person to gardening. I love it! I find it very meditative and creative (you can see how excited I am!). I have a large area, part is decent soil, but the other side is very dry. After watering that slanted area, the next day it gets very dry, and things do not grow well there. What shall I do?"
The best thing to do with temperamental soil is to add compost. Compost, when tilled into the soil, has several benefits: it encourages microorganisms, necessary for plant growth; it aerates the soil; it helps sandy soils retain water, yet it helps drainage in heavy, clay soils; and, it adds nutrients to the soil. I usually recommend tilling in one cubic yard of compost for every 300 square feet of garden space. But because you mention it is a slanted area, you may want to either level that portion of the yard, build raised beds (which solves all sorts of garden problems), or water the area more slowly to discourage runoff. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems are ideal for this purpose.
Bob of Lockeford asks: "I have a quarter acre lot with heavy, clay soil in full sun. I am putting fruit trees in raised beds. What ground covers would be best to use?"
On our almost-impenetrable clay soil, we have found that verbena peruviana makes an excellent ground cover, covering an area in just a single season. If you want the ground cover to do double duty around the fruit trees, you might consider clover, which will add nitrogen to the soil for your fruit trees.
Nancy of Sacramento asks: "What is the best way to stake a tomato plant?"
There are many solutions, including wooden stakes and twine. My favorite enclosures for vigorously-growing tomato plants are cages made from galvanized concrete reinforcement wire. A 50-foot roll of this six-inch mesh, five feet-high wire can be cut to make about a half dozen tomato cages, each with a diameter of two to three feet. Unlike the scrawny versions usually offered for sale, these tomato cages will serve you for life.
Mary of Lodi writes: "We have had a sago palm for many years and now it has a "pup" that is growing too big. We want to remove it as the mother plant fills up most of the large pot. What do we do?"
April is a good time of year to cut off that "pup" from "mom". A sharp knife or a similar cutting tool should do the job. Then, give it its own pot, planting it at the same depth that you found it at.
Don of Sacramento wrote: " I have been going to plant Blueberrys for a long time. the spot I havechosen for them in in a corner of my back yard. So I buy a couple of Blueberrys Now I take a soil sample ( should have done this first) PH is little over 8. I'v read that the PH should be around 4 Could I drop it that much? (To many wood ashes over the years)"
Yep, you'll need to get the pH down to between four and five. One professional berry grower I know says to grow them in straight sawdust. I have never tried that, I think you'd have to add a lot of nitrogen in addition. You might try a combination of peat moss and shredded bark or sawdust. You can also add sulfur to the soil to lower pH. You have to experiment to find the right amount, though.
Here's an article I recently wrote about blueberries:
Many valley and foothill gardeners enjoy the sweet taste of blueberries; few homes here, though, feature any backyard plantings of this deciduous shrub. We've been told through the years that it's tough to grow them in our heat; and, our neutral-to-alkaline soil doesn't treat them very kindly. However, there's no reason why our neighbors on the coast and in the Pacific Northwest should have all that enjoyment for themselves. Blueberries can be grown successfully here, if given the right conditions.
At the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center in Fair Oaks Park in Sacramento County, the Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners are testing several southern highbush blueberry varieties that early reports indicate should do well in the Sacramento-San Joaquin area. Among the varieties they are growing this season: Bluecrop, Blue Ray, Cape Fear, Georgia Gem, O'Neal, Ozark Blue, Reveille, Sharp Blue and Sunshine Blue. In your home garden, try several different varieties; not only will that improve pollination and give you an extended season for harvesting the berries, it will let you know which ones do best in your yard.
Blueberry shrubs can get to six feet or more in height; plant them three feet apart as a hedge; four to five feet apart as individual shrubs. Blueberries need plenty of water and acid soil. Wherever azaleas and rhododendrons flourish in your yard will be a good location for blueberries. Give blueberries protection from the hot, late afternoon sun and wind; the east side of your home may be best. Acidify the soil with moistened peat moss and feed the plants with an acid fertilizer, such as one intended for azaleas and rhododendrons. Mulch the area beneath the blueberries with several inches of ground bark or sawdust, to help acidify the soil.
Dave of Camino wrote:"Fred, I have read your excellent articles, "Terrific Tomato Tips" and "Tomatoes, Peppers in Our 2001 Garden", and they present a wide selection of choices for the Valley. However, I have 5 Earth Boxes which I plan to use this Spring to grow regular slicing tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, and I want to be sure the varieties I select will be correct for THIS area.We're out on ten acres about 3 1/2 miles north of Camino here in the Sierras at about 3200 feet altitude. I'd appreciate any guidance you could give me for my "crops" this year."
You are correct in wanting shorter season tomato varieties, especially those that are heartier in cooler weather. Here's a list of tomatoes that I have grown in the winter here in the greenhouse that should do OK for you outdoors in the Sierra summer (late June-September):
Bush Early Girl VFFNT Hybrid. Bush Beefsteak. Clear Pink Early. Grushovka. Manitoba. Northern Exposure. Oregon Spring V. Pilgrim VFFA Hybrid. Polar Baby. Prairie Fire. Red Robin. Siberia. Siletz. Sub Arctic Maxi. Sweet Tangerine. Tumbler. 506 Bush.
Short season peppers include those that can go from seed to harvestable fruit in 65 days or less, but they still need warm soil to do best. Those Earth Boxes, especially placed in an area that gets lots of heat (such as next to a south or west wall) would be a good home for these. there are plenty of sweet peppers that meet that criteria, including a new one, Giant Marconi Hybrid. I would also choose the Gypsy, Jingle Bells, Northstar Hybrid, Roumanian Rainbow. If I were you, I would plant the seeds indoors now, next to a sunny window, and transplant into the garden (earth box) when the soil temperature is above 75 degrees (soil thermometers are available at many locations). I don't think you may get as good results with hot peppers; they need a long growing season as well as lots of heat. You might try Inferno, Cherry Bomb, NuMex Joe E. Parker, Pepperoncini and Ring of Fire.
I am not as familiar with cucumbers for your area. A look at this year's Park's garden catalog indicates that some short season varieties might include Spacemaster and Amira Hybrid.
Rosalie wrote: "We just this weekend put down fresh wood chips to cover open areas in our garden (about .4 acres). I've heard that I should use ammonium sulfate or a balanced fertilizer on the chips so that the chips won't leach nitrogen from the soil and surrounding plants. The story goes that plants compete with the bark for nitrogen. Please clear up the confusion for me."
It is soil microbes that help decompose the wood chips, which eventually will add nitrogen to the soil. In the meantime, the microbes are not breaking down plant material closer to the plant roots, which provide nitrogen immediately to the plants. So, before adding chips as a mulch around plants, it's not a bad idea to mix in a fertilizer containing nitrogen into the soil. Again, that should be done before adding the bark mulch. However, I wouldn't worry too much. You can always (beginning in late March for most plants), foliar feed your plants with a water-soluble fertilizer to get them nitrogen. Just use a watering can or a hose end sprayer to apply the fertilizer.
Robin wrote: "I planted a white birch (5 gal can) and an olive (25 gal) last year. I believe I planted them in the wrong places and they should actually be switched. The ground is very wet right now, and skies cloudy. Is this a safe procedure and do you have any suggestions about the best way, if it is a good idea at all."
November through February is the best time of year to transplant these trees. Olives are very hardy, and should transplant without too much of a problem.
With both trees, try to get as much of the root area as possible, which may extend just beyond the drip line of the canopy of the branches. But since you just planted them last year, they should transplant without too much trouble. Just be sure that the new areas are ready to receive the trees (holes already dug).
Dennis of Carmichael wrote: "I checked your questions and answers, but didn't see anything about lawns. I've seen ads for years in publications for zoysia lawn plugs, which, if one were to believe the claims the producers make, are the solution for every lawn problem known to man. I've always dismissed the claims as too good to be true, yet the ads, and apparently the business that place the ads, have persisted for decades. I wonder if I've been missing a good deal. I don't like spending money on my lawns. I water, mow (with a mulching, rechargeable electric mower), and very occasionally fertilize. I don't do anything for weed control except set the cutting level high in the summer months. I have just about every weed known to this area: clover, crabgrass, bermuda, spurge, dandelions, etc. Over the years, my rear lawn (about 6,000 square feet) has provided my children with a great place to run around, play frisbee, and more recently home run derby, using wiffle balls and plastic bats, but the weeds are annoying and some are hard on bare feet. The yard has poor drainage, and there's hard pan about 12 inches down. I'd love to put in something that would just take over and look good all year long. Is zoysia the answer for me?"
Here is what the book, "Ortho's All About Lawns" says about zoysiagrass: "Zoysiagrass forms a dense turf that is resistant to weeds, insects and diseases. It does not aggressively invade garden beds like bermudagrass. However, it establishes slowly, browns out early in fall, and is slow to green up in spring. Zoysiagrass does not mix well with other grasses in a lawn. Fine-leaf varieties tend toward a fluffy growth that often looks scalped when mown." It also says in another section, "...the needle-like blades of many zoysiagrass can be sharp underfoot."
So, your instincts are probably correct. One way to keep summer weeds down is to apply a preemergent in January or February. The preemergent will stop weeds from sprouting for up to three months. Then, in the fall, you can renovate your lawn, which is a big chore.
John of Davis writes:"When is it time to prune fuchsias? This year the leaves are still on. The frost did not do its thing this year. Thanks."
Early spring, once new growth begins.
DD wrote: "Farmer Fred,We recently built a small pond near our home in Tehama County. The soil on the pond's perimeter is red clay and rocks. What would be some good tree varieties to plant around the pond that would grow in such poor soil, survive with their roots wet all year, and not be too messy as far as not dropping lots of leaves into the water?"
Golly. Clay, rocks, wet and not messy. You don't mention your altitude in Tehama County, so I will assume it's in the Red Bluff area (Sunset zones 8-9). This will be a short list of trees for such an area (according to the Sunset Western Garden cd-rom): Thuja, alder, birch, Rhamnus purshiana (cascara sagrada, according to Sunset Western Garden Book), and bald cypress. However, all of those will create some mess.
Pat in Dixon asks: "We rent this house and the landlord is very picky about the yard. When should I fertilize the lawn? I think I need to wait til March, but others are doing it now."
March is a good month to begin fertilizing the lawn. Feed cool season grasses about every six weeks, March through June. Let them rest during the heat of the summer, July and August. Resume feeding every six weeks in September, continue through mid-November. For warm season grasses such as bermudagrass, feed every six weeks from March through October.
S. Kohler wrote: "I have tried growing basil from seed before. It died when it was about an inch high. Everyone I talk to says it grows like a weed! I want to grow it as well as cilantro. How?"
It sounds like your basil keeled over from a disease called damping off. This is what happens when a seed attempts growth in soil that is too wet, too cold, and/or containing too much nitrogen; or, the seed itself is too old.
If you want to start basil or cilantro from seed, it's best to start them off in small pots, in a warm, protected, yet somewhat sunny area. A sunny window sill would be ideal. Use fresh potting soil, not garden soil. Garden soil may contain pathogens which could cause seedlings to die off. If you suspect soil pathogens, you can bake the soil in the oven first, for 30-45 minutes at 140 degrees.
Don't let the pot sit in water. Allow the soil to drain. Until the seeds germinate, the soil should be slightly moist. Don't let it dry out. For an even faster start to seeds, there are propagation pads available, which are basically waterproof heating pads that put off a little bit of heat, enough to raise the soil temperature into the 70's, excellent for germination.
The key to a successful summer herb like basil or cilantro: don't transplant it outside into its garden home until the weather warms up, preferably in May.
Scott writes: "All of my snaps have rust on the underside of the leaves, blotching the tops and the plants are dying back. Is there any spray? Ive heard that the rust takes an insecticide, not a fungicide? Any help?"
Rust on snapdragons is caused by a fungus, Puccinia antirhinni. It is most active when the weather is cool. You don't say where you live; here in the valley, it's been in the 70's & 80's the last few weeks; but it has been staying in the 60's along the coast or at higher elevations. It's those temps in the 60's that can lead to rust. Two things you can do to help prevent future outbreaks in any new snapdragons: don't crowd them (good air circulation helps cut down rust) and don't overhead water them (which can spread the fungus).
In the meantime, the best thing you can do is clip off and put in the trash (not the compost pile) any infected plant parts as well as any plant material that may be on the ground; and do so on a regular basis. As a last resort, wettable sulfur applied weekly might help prevent future outbreaks on the snaps. For any chemical you buy, make sure that the problem (rust) and the plant (snapdragon) are listed on the label. Not all fungicides are meant for all fungus problems and plants.
Sharon writes: "Our apple tree is loaded with apples, aphids and ants. I know that having ants "farming" aphids is not a good thing. Can I put something on the trunk to keep the ants from traveling to and from? Any other suggestions?"
Two steps to help control this ant problem:
1. A blast of water (using the jet setting on a nozzle) into the tree should knock the aphids to the ground.
2. Wrap some cardboard or other strong paper around the tree trunk, about three feet up from the ground. Cover the cardboard with Tanglefoot, a sticky substance which will trap the ants. Make sure the ants can't crawl under the cardboard to get to the top of the tree. You could apply the Tanglefoot directly to the tree trunk, but it will leave a sticky, messy mark on the tree trunk.
Kelly's problem: "I have about 3/4 of an acre that was once a field turned into a garden. My main problem is with weed and crab grass. Because it is such a large area I am looking for an inexpensive yet effective way to help control the weeds from invading everything I plant."
Crabgrass seeds can lay dormant for 10 years, so you can expect an annual battle with that weed. One inexpensive trick to kill the current crop of weeds: water the area, then lay black plastic over the area to be eradicated of weeds. Make sure the black plastic is secure around the edges so cool air can't get it. If you put black plastic over the area for six weeks in July and August, that should take care of many of the weeds.
Another solution: lay down weed cloth over the area and cover with a mulch of trimmings that have gone through a chipper shredder. SMUD gives away such cuttings at their lot on Don Julio Blvd. Also, if you see tree trimmers in your neighborhood, they may drop off their cuttings at your house if you ask them nicely and bribe them with a 12-pack of soda.
Weed cloth allows air and water to permeate, yet keeps weeds from growing. We use lots of weed cloth and mulch in our yard, and it greatly reduces the time and effort it takes to weed the area.
1. Send it to:fred
2. Write to Lodi News-Sentinel garden columnist Fred Hoffman c/o the Lodi News-Sentinel, P.O. Box 1360, Lodi CA 95241
3. Or, call in your garden questions each Sunday. Call (916) 921-1530 during the KFBK Garden show from 8:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. (Pacific Time). OR, call between 10 a.m.-Noon (Pacific Time), at (916) 576-1578.That's when Lifetime Master Gardener Fred Hoffman hosts the call-in radio show, "Get Growing," on Talk650/KSTE-Sacramento.